Flashlight Types
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[edit] Features
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[edit] P60
Surefire created an assembly for some models of its flashlights called a P60. It is a 6-volt incandescent bulb and reflector assembly (for instance, the Surefire 6P, M2, and G2 flashlights all use the P60 assembly). They also make a LED version called a P60L and 9-volt versions called P90 and P90L that are the same size. This became an industry standard and now many companies offer P60 drop-ins (the bulb and reflector assembly regardless of bulb type or voltage) and P60 hosts (flashlight bodies that accept the drop-ins). Some companies avoid the Surefire naming system by calling P60 a D26 (the bezel diameter is 26.5 mm) or won't even mention P60 at all. No soldering is required: you just drop the assembly into the host and you are ready to go. Make sure you match up voltage requirements. For instance if you get a 3.7-4.2V drop-in, don't operate it using two CR123A batteries which would be 6V. LED drop-ins include the reflector, LED, and driver and are available as single mode or multi-mode, though the drivers could be swapped out separately to change that. The LED forum of CPF has a sticky listing P60 drop-ins with a link to a list of P60 hosts. The advantage of the P60 system is that once you find a host you like, you can upgrade to a newer LED by just buying a new drop-in which will come with a reflector and driver designed for that particular LED.
Other drop-in sizes include D36 with a 36mm reflector.
[edit] Tactical Lights
Tactical lights are generally compact and durable with an emphasis on high output rather than extended runtime. The most common power source for tactical lights is the CR123A cell.
[edit] Spotlights
Spotlights universally feature extremely high output over all other factors. Spotlights typically feature large reflectors and high-power light sources such as high-power incadescent lamps or HID lamps. These lights are typically quite large and can push the definition of "flashlight" quite a bit with their bulk and external power sources.
[edit] 6V Lanterns
The 6V lantern is at the midpoint between a common flashlight and the more specialized spotlight. They don't feature the output of most spotlights, but do tend to have large reflectors and throw much further than typical flashlights.
[edit] Headlamps
Headlamps are specialized flashights equipped with straps or some other method to secure them to the user's head.
[edit] Bike Lights
There are many options depending on budget, intended use, personal preference, and whether or not tools are in your garage and the desire to diy is in your heart.
Front lights.
A small rechargeable high-power led flashlight may be used with a suitable clamp or mount. Although a flashlight was not primarily designed to be used in this way a this setup is relatively popular, mainly for its light weight and potential to deliver a lot of lumens and acceptable runtimes for a low price. Using a high-end flashlight (see entry Surefire) for this purpose may cost as much as a purpose-designed bike light.
The performance from the setup will vary according to the model chosen. As a rough guide, an output approaching 200 lumens and a run time of 2 hours can be achieved from a $20 Cree P4, Q5 or R2 equipped flashlight powered by an 18650 rechargeable battery. A flashlight equipped with a P7 of MCE emitter should offer up to triple the lumens but one 18650 battery will last less than an hour on full power. (Note that budget P7/MCE torches are sometimes marketed as '900 lumen.' It must be understood that this figure does not describe the performance of the flashlight. A poor analogy would be a calling a car with a top speed of 162mph a 220mph car on the basis that the speedometer has markings that continue up to 220mph). Here we come up against one of the inherent limits in a flashlight, they are usualy not required to have the run times that high-performance purpose manufactured bike lights offer. Changing batteries mid-ride or running leads from the light to an external battery pack are two solutions. The external battery pack is popular and suitable 4*18650 battery holders can be found ready to buy by those who seek. Another potential limit is the beam angle. You will often not find beamshots featured in reviews of bike lights so you may buy without knowing how it will perform. A reflector is almost always used whereas purpose designed lights use optics. A reflector will usually give a tighter spot with a lot of spill, lower efficiency, smoother beam. A variety of optics can be fitted. Purpose made mounts are commonly used, although an oportunity to reincarnate that old road handlebar stem will present itself to the alert. One preferred application for this light is as a helmet light. The narrow spot, light weight, and low profile.
AA powered lights offering upto 200 lumens are also popular.
A be-seen light.
Led torches on low mode can be used as daylight running lights - not a joke, I'm experimenting with a pair.
Halogen is often seen as 'old technology' yet it would be over-hasty to dismiss it as Lupine, Niteflux and Light and Motion all currently offer models costing over $100 that use 6v Mr11 bulbs, and used Cateye halogen lights are still bought on ebay for over $60. Halogen is a much less efficient light source than led. 20 lumens per watt or more is a realistic guide figure for a purpose designed bulb (price around $15, life 200 hours) whereas led offers 50+. Halogen users will need to carry more battery power to achieve a run time and brightness to match a lower-powered led light. The older lights are often powered by nimh, nicad and occasionally lead acid batteries making this often a heavier solution. With the exception of Lupine, the most powerful lights offered are 15w, although 20w setups were sold using two independent 10w lamps. Lupine offer a 25w lamp. 12v Mr16 was once a popular option for higher power and some cyclists continue the fine heritage.(16 and 11 refer to the size of the reflector and bulb unit in 1/8 inch. This gives diameter of 35mm (mr11) and 50mm (mr16)). The 'Pond scum light' is a notable example. By running a high quality 12v bulb at 14v, 15v, or 16v greater efficency can be achieved and a reasonably lamp life maintained. There was a myth that this technique 'overvolting' could produce greater efficiency than led or hid. A surprising number of people believed it. 30 lumens or more per watt is realistic using the best bulbs. What diy halogen does offer is a low initial cost for housings and bulb. A pair of suitable housings can be bought for $20 in the US. A Uk ebay seller has sold many hand made units with bulb, switch and mount, for over $30 each. The expense will come from the battery, and if a steady output is required, the regulator. Some users claim they find it easy to make things out by halogen than by an led with equivalent lumen output and produce less glare too. Halogen has a warmer colour temperature than common led and as an incandescent light source has high CRI (colour rendition index) value. High powered halogen is not a popular option.
Diy led bike lights can offer very high performance at a low price. From 200 lumens to 2000+. As well as a lighting solution building a light provides you with a hobby. For anyone wanting to stay up to date with the latest from the world of diy lights, there are plenty of helpful forums.
10w and the new NGX 14w Hid lights are made using Welch Allyn equipment. 10w refers to the power at the bulb, they may variously be called a 12w, 14w or 14w lamp and use the same components. 10w ballasts must be supplied with the right voltage which is why regulators are used. There is no scope for Diy so they are no fun. The kit is relatively expensive and a bulb can fail if dropped on a hard floor. New bulbs are white with a slight blue tint, with use they become dimmer and develop a distinctly blue/purple or green colour. Some users may claim that the beam is better than with led.
Dynamos really are good.
Rear lights.
Rear lights are Led. Some are brighter than others. It is possible to go too bright using a red torch. 'Glo toob' style lights are available.
Other aspects to bike lighting.
Lights may be positioned an the handlebar, helmet or lower down. Mounting low will cast a longer shadow which shows up inconsistencies in the road surface more clearly. Fork crown, mudguard mounting hole or a fork blade mounted cronometro nob can be used. Handlebar allow you to adjust the beam as you ride and access any swithches. Helmet allows you to cope with twisty off-road twists.
Lights come with quick release mounts so that they can be easily removed to thwart those with criminal intents.
Lights may be treasured for their aesthetic value.
The desire to mount a 35w car hid on your bike is perfectly natural.
There are lots of beam angles but only some will do for what you want.
There are laws about bike lights.
Bike lights can a hazard for oncoming drivers because they have no cut off.
Hier wird nur English gespochen.
It is possible to buy bike lights from a bike shop. Many do so and do not regret it.
[edit] EDC/Pocket lights
(Every Day Carry)
EDC lights are typically small enough to fit on a keyring, pocket, clip onto a belt, or fit in a purse. Most EDC lights feature a balance of runtime, brightness, and compact size; although there are some that focus on one or two attributes.
[edit] Keyring
Keyring lights are small enough and designed to fit on a keyring. Most keyring lights use coin cells to power a small LED, but some run off AAA batteries.
